Materials
* InkJet printer. I use an HP Envy 120.
* Photoshop or GIMP.
* Fan paint brush.
* Acetone.
* Any Glossy InkAid or Golden Digital Ground Clear. Make sure you don't buy any Matte InkAids, only Glossy versions work. *Update* The digital ground appears to be discontinued so use the InkAid, its the same stuff.
* FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium.
* Krylon Matte Finish.
* Removable Double sided tape.
* Digital proxies can be found at Z's Proxy factory or check out my video on how to make them yourself.
* If you make your own proxies you'll need Matrix Bold and Magic Symbol and MPlantin fonts. Also here is a list of templates.
* InkJet printer. I use an HP Envy 120.
* Photoshop or GIMP.
* Fan paint brush.
* Acetone.
* Any Glossy InkAid or Golden Digital Ground Clear. Make sure you don't buy any Matte InkAids, only Glossy versions work. *Update* The digital ground appears to be discontinued so use the InkAid, its the same stuff.
* FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium.
* Krylon Matte Finish.
* Removable Double sided tape.
* Digital proxies can be found at Z's Proxy factory or check out my video on how to make them yourself.
* If you make your own proxies you'll need Matrix Bold and Magic Symbol and MPlantin fonts. Also here is a list of templates.
Process
1) Blank a card with acetone or peel the surface off a foil card.
2) Spray the entire surface of the card with the Krylon Matte Finish and allow the card to dry until dry to the touch.
3) Take the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and stir it up. Apply it to the card and allow to dry until dry to the touch.
5) Print out your carrier sheet and attach the card to it with Removable Double sided tape.
6) Hide the border and unhide the artwork and text on your computer and print the card. Place the card in front of a heater for about 30 minutes to ensure that the ink drys fully and will not bleed.
FAQ
Q: My print didn't turn out right, what should I do?
A: Check out common mistakes people make.
Q: My print didn't turn out right, what should I do?
A: Check out common mistakes people make.
Q: Can I use a LaserJet?
A: No, but you wouldn't want to they are low quality.
Q: My prints are wet with ink after I print what should I do?
A: Try using two thin coats instead of just one coat. If the ink is wet on the surface that means it needs more substance to seep into. This is especially true for dark inks. See 2) in common mistakes people make.
A: Sure its actually easier if you mix the two and apply them in one step. Just mix a 50/50 ratio. I just didn't realize this when I made the video.
A: This creates a hydrophobic layer that will prevent the card from warping after applying the next layers.
Q: What is the purpose of the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium?
A: There are two main reasons this layer is applied. Firstly, it acts an adhesive that allows the next layer to be applied without peeling off. Secondly, it acts as a porous layer that allows ink to seep into it. Without this layer darker inks would cake on the surface and bleed. See 1) in common mistakes people make.
Q: What is the purpose of the InkAid?
A: This is the inkjet receptive coating. This material will allow the ink to adhere to the surface of the card. See 3) in common mistakes people make.
Q: I get a bumpy surface when I apply the InkAid?
A: Make sure you shake it well. You can try mixing it with the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and apply both in one step. You can also try applying in front of a heater to dry faster.
Q: After I print in Photoshop all these settings come up. What do I do now?
A: I only know what settings to choose if you have an HP Envy 120 after you click "Print" go to "Print Settings -> Paper Type and Quality." Select "HP Photo Paper," select "Best" under "Quality." Then print.
Q: How do you print dark blacks?
A: Printing black is very challenging and requires some skill.
Q: What is the purpose of the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium?
A: There are two main reasons this layer is applied. Firstly, it acts an adhesive that allows the next layer to be applied without peeling off. Secondly, it acts as a porous layer that allows ink to seep into it. Without this layer darker inks would cake on the surface and bleed. See 1) in common mistakes people make.
Q: What is the purpose of the InkAid?
A: This is the inkjet receptive coating. This material will allow the ink to adhere to the surface of the card. See 3) in common mistakes people make.
Q: I get a bumpy surface when I apply the InkAid?
A: Make sure you shake it well. You can try mixing it with the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and apply both in one step. You can also try applying in front of a heater to dry faster.
Q: After I print in Photoshop all these settings come up. What do I do now?
A: I only know what settings to choose if you have an HP Envy 120 after you click "Print" go to "Print Settings -> Paper Type and Quality." Select "HP Photo Paper," select "Best" under "Quality." Then print.
Q: How do you print dark blacks?
A: Printing black is very challenging and requires some skill.
Instead of calibrating the printer it's better to calibrate the images.
The idea is to set the contrast and black values in Photoshop, do a test print, see if it's black enough, then keep doing that until it looks good. Once you've done that then you can use that image as a reference image for anything else that you want to print. Compare any new images you print to the reference image and adjust the black and contrast until it matches and then you'll know your new image will print black correctly.
So the two things you'll want to adjust are (in Photoshop) Image->Adjustments->Brightness and Contrast
And Image ->Adjustments->Selective color. Then adjust the black level for black and gray tones.
Make sure to right click the image layer and rasterize it before hand.
If you get bleeding make sure to use at least two layers of coating. Also, sometimes what looks like bleeding is actually just a symptom of printing an image that is too low resolution. Most of the images I print are absolutely massive resolution and I get very nice dark crisp lines.
Feedback? Email me at chess314 at Gmail dot com
could you post a video of how you make the Photoshop files for your proxies. like how you get the text boxes and the colors for them and all that?
ReplyDeleteCheck out this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nHOVZ2f-gc&feature=youtu.be
DeleteDo i have to have Photoshop to do this
DeleteGIMP works as well, but you can get a free copy of Photoshop CS2
Deletehttp://www.adobe.com/downloads/other-downloads.html
i have the fonts and symbols i'm just very confused how you get the text boxes the right size format colors and all that
ReplyDeletealso i noticed in the psd there is a font called MPlantin. do you have a download for that font as well not just the matrix bold?
ReplyDeleteim having a hard time stripping the card any suggestion? the acrds keep going to hell on me
ReplyDeleteHow can i exactly remove the ink with out make damage to the card?
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI am trying to use this process to print on foil cards... And having mixed results - one card (printed last night) looks fine. But two other (it's more humid today) have ink running and not sticking to the card. Have I messed something up? I am using an HP 8600 printer to do the printing. Thanks in advance,
If you're getting bleeding you may need more glass and tile medium to absorb the ink. However there is a bigger problem with printing over a fool surface. Real foil cards use white ink. I have yet to find a way to get an inkjet to print with white ink...
DeleteDoing two coats of glass and tile medium seems to be improving the results significantly... Thanks!
DeleteI'm not familiar with "white ink"... What is that?
ReplyDeleteThat's exactly what it is. It's ink with a white color. It's not available in home printers. It's a type of printers ink that is used by industrial printing presses to create white images on non white surfaces
DeleteWhat will happen if I don't use spray?
ReplyDeleteIf you skip the spray in step 1 the card will warp
DeleteNot true.
DeleteIt may warp. Mine did.
Deleteif its foiled WOTC took the pleasure to warp it for you
DeleteThanks for the tutorial. I have made many proxies that were far worse than what you are creating. Do these fit into perfect fit sleeves?
ReplyDeleteYeah, they fit into perfect fit sleeves. They're indistinguishable from normal cards
ReplyDeleteDoes this method work with Laser Jet printers?
ReplyDeleteNo only inkjets. Laser jets are low quality not really worth using anyway
DeleteIt's a couple years later, I am wanting to use a Laser Printer (http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/151661/Xerox-Phaser-6510N-Laser-Printer-Color/?ref=463847) specifically... I don't see how it would be low quality. Can you elaborate or would something like that work nowadays?
DeleteAs far as I know laserjet printers have not advanced much. I can't say exactly why they don't work well for pictures, but they look pretty bad. If you're curious you can verify this for yourself by asking for a test print and comparing it to a real card.
DeleteThe other issue is that when you print on a real card with a laserjet there can be other issues, but I'm not sure how to solve them... If you can some how find a way to make laserjets work please post it.
Whenever I use acetone to blank the card, the liquid gets into the cardboard and starts tearing it up. What should I do?
ReplyDeleteUse far less acetone at a time. Apply a drop at a time to the cloth/papertowel you are wiping with
DeleteThis is great! I've wanted to make partial alters in real mtg cards, like just changing the picture, or changing the white border to black, but in a way that it looked like it way originally printed that way at the factory.
ReplyDeleteCan I do this with your technique, or is it impossible to print exactly a the right places without screwing up?
Yeah! The links are at the top of my blog http://revesmtgart.blogspot.com/p/how-to-do-full-art-alterations.html
DeleteAnd check out artwork replacements
This is precisely what I was looking for ! Genius!
DeleteThank you! Really, thank you. I'll try not to mess up . :P
Sorry to bother but I have one more question. Do you think that I can use this process to "repair" the back of a Magic card? Like just printing in a few spots in the back that are heavily damaged (not the cardboard itself, mostly just white spots were the ink is missing because of use). If I use the same process for artwork replacements, do you think that it can work, or will there be a notable difference in the colors of the original ink vs the printers ink? I haven't tried it yet but I would greatly appreciate if you could give your expert opinion. :) I have a Epson xp-312, so I have a reasonable 1,200x2,400dpi resolution.
DeleteHi, I'm from Chile and I can't find where I can buy the HP Envy 120 printer, do you think the Epson L120 would do the job as well? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteAny inkjet printer will work. The most important things to look for in a printer is max resolution and sharpness. I have t personally tried it, but it looks like a fine printer
DeleteI need way more jnformation of your application technique and amount used . Having hard time getting consistant good prints and even layers on cards
ReplyDeleteHi ! First, thx for the tutorial.
ReplyDeleteFor my 1st attempt, i tried to mix 50/50 folkart medium and golden digital ground. The result is quite awful : i get kind of a white solidish goo, impossible to put that on my card.. Someone knows why ? I'll try to put them separately next time :) Bye !
Any way you could proxy my 360 card power cube for me?
ReplyDeleteget 360 cards for 171$ DHL shipping
Deletehttp:www.mtg-proxies-cards.com
So I've been trying this method and I've found that my cards bend like crazy once I put the tile medium on them. Is there any way to keep them from bending? Otherwise, what is your preferred method of flattening them afterwards?
ReplyDeleteYou're probably not spraying enough varnish on them in the first step. The varnish protects the card form warping. Try two layers of varnish.
ReplyDeleteI can't find the Folk Art Glass and Tile Medium anywhere. What's a good alternative? Amazon is all out. Ty
ReplyDeleteUgg I don't know. It's the only product I've tried that worked. I've tried a few clear spray adhesion promoters and those didn't work. Maybe someone else will know?
DeleteI found them. :) Check on ebay or from the manufacturers website
Deletei know its like 8 months later but also try arts and crafts stores in your area like a michaels or acmoore or even a johannes fabrics
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteIf I used white digital ground, could I just print over the card without removing with acetone?
ReplyDeleteNope. White digital ground straight up doesn't work, even if it did, white is not opaque enough to cover anything.
ReplyDeleteDo you have a problem with the cards getting stuck in the printer? My printer tends to paper jam even with thin card-stock so I am a little afraid to try this. Is your printer a back-feed? would a back-feed be a good investment if I were to get into this sort of proxy making?
ReplyDeleteI'm in the process of collecting printer info from readers to eventually do a printer recommendation post. Can you post the name of your printer, I'll be sure to warn ppl about jamming issues with it.
DeleteA back feed seems like it might be better, but I have no problems with the HP Envy and it rolls the card
One way to prevent jamming is to make a carrier sheet out of card stock. Print the border only on a sheet of card stock and then carefully cut out the interior of the border with an exacto knife. If you do this right, a standard MTG card should fit tightly in the hole without any play. Use delicate surface frogtape (see my post below) to hold the card in the carrier sheet and feed the whole thing through the printer as though it is one sheet. The thickness of the card stock will feed better through the rollers while the tape forces the card to bend as it goes through. Hope this helps you.
DeleteI followed the steps and have an inkjet printer the canon pixma mg6820 and they come out looking like garbage. Very blurry and I printed on high resolution. What am I doing incorrectly?
ReplyDeleteTheres a lot that could be causing this, if you post more detail I can help. Did you buy white digital ground instead of clear?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteI can't get the glass and tile medium to make an even coat. It either has big streaks or has lots of little bits stuck on it. Yes, I have mixed throughly.
ReplyDeletecommon problems with streaks are:
Delete* not stiring the Folk art, (shaking doesn’t work)
* applying too little. You need a good amount on there and then the liquid will settle into a flat surface area. Also, you need a good amount to get a perfect print.
* don’t worry about making it perfect at first, after the print the krylon matte finish will eliminate any residual streaking.
A big one is this-- You need to make sure that your initial coat of varnish is not too hydrophobic. Krylon Matte finish is fine. I havent tested other brands for streaking, but if they are too hydrophobic the layer of folk art and ground wont dry evenly. Let me know if that helps, but you should not have any streaking, all my cards are perfectly flat and even.
Thanks for the tips! I wasn't aware of that point about the varnish. I'm using another brand, but I think I've been putting it on too thick. Will post an update after my next try.
DeleteOk, I tried stirring and also applying the Tile and Digital media separately, and that seems to have solved the lumps, but I'm still getting streaks that are noticeable even after the final varnish.
DeleteThe other problem I'm having is that I can't always seem to strip the ink off completely. Rarely will I get a pure white card. Mostly they turn out grey or blotchy (very faint of course) but enough to affect the print colour. The colours turn out dull because of this.
Let me know if you still get streaks with Krylon. I did a simple experiment where I spread some of the mixture over Krylon and over the back of a normal magic card. The result was that Krylon did not streak, but whatever varnish was on the magic card did cause streaks.
DeleteTo blank the card more easily you can take a cheap foil card, dab a little acetone on the corner of it until the foil layer starts to peel away. Then grab the foil layer and pull it off. There will be some residual glue, but you can clean that up with the acetone. This should be much easier and cleaner, although you will need a foil.
Try google "how to blank magic card" for a vid on that.
Hi, I'm really looking forward to print some proxies using your method but I have a problem: i live in Italy, and I can't get the Folk Art gel; is there some sostitute you'd recommend?
ReplyDeleteHi, someone else emailed me with this issue, unfortunately I havent found an alternative yet.
DeleteIf you try different products and find one that works please post your results.
A few things to keep in mind:
* The product will need to be matte (if you care about doing foils)
* The product needs to be an adhesion promoter so that the Digital Ground does not peel off the card.
* It needs to have good absorption properties so that the ink will have surface area to seep into otherwise the print will look blurry.
If you don't feel like experimenting maybe you can try eBay?
Good luck
First of all, thx for the patience to share with us, an gratz for your work.
DeleteI have the same problem, can't find the Folkart glass medium.
I couldnt really grasp the difference between the Folkart medium and the Golden Clear Ground purpose.
Do you have any idea of any other products that maybe a good substitute?
Does MATTE MEDIUM GOLDEN makes any sense?
Ty a lot!
Last question. Do you ever print multiple cards on the same sheet? I tried printing 9 at once, and the printer ended up scrapping some ink off around the edges on some cards.
ReplyDeleteI've actually never tried more than one. Interesting idea though...
DeleteHey
ReplyDeleteAny advise on improving the resolution of prints? I did a test run today, printing onto a card primed with Folk Art & Digital Ground, but it came out really low resolution like the ink had run slightly - and some sections were still wet while others were dry.
The printer can do an acceptable job printing onto plain paper but on the card I have issues.
Any help would be appreciated!
Few things to check:
ReplyDelete1) you are using the clear not white version of digital ground
2) latest drivers, highest print settings etc
3) the most common problem is that you're not putting on enough of the mixture. If you're doing one layer, try two thin layers. The ink needs porous area to seep into. In my tests with professional printer paper my cards end up act much sharper than the pro paper.
If you still have issues post another comment. Thanks for feedback :)
Hi, I'm having problems de-inking the card, basically I put some acetone on a rug and then I start working on the card, the problem is that at some point the paper of the card under the ink starts to get rough and it becomes grey (I imagine that the ink that's coming off the other parts of the card just goes there), do you have any idea what I'm doing wrong? I tried with different rugs and different quantities of acetone but I get alwais the same result.
ReplyDeletetry this:
Deletehttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwin7tO4yO3KAhVLwWMKHTwpBxkQtwIIKzAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DbFgieDT0qOg&usg=AFQjCNGomzwR1RFvCq5zX8lRWScWwx0eWA&sig2=rv-FV_B0pmJrFZfMeA8k8Q&bvm=bv.113943164,d.cGc
I first tried with acetone and it rubbed through the paper. I then tried lacquer thinner (paint thinner) and was able to rub for a long time with significant pressure and it never rubbed through the white. However it does smudge the paint on the back of the card if contact occurs.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteMake sure you use PURE acetone. Don't use nail polish remover, as it contains other chemicals that can damage the surface of plain paper cards. Pure acetone will result in a cleaner appearance when you're done. Another thing -- don't spend too much time grinding away at one spot on the card. Friction + moisture = damage. Use firm, yet moderate pressure and move around on the card while de-inking to let the acetone flash away. If you keep a wet rag on same spot on the card for too long, you will get the ugly greying effect, as you loosen the fibers of the paper and effectively press the wet ink into them.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI'm trying this method and I've been having issues with my printer (a Canon Pixma MX920) printing in irregular locations every time I run my A4 card stock through it. Is there any trick to getting reliable placement of the image on the page? This irregularly placement is a non-issue for transparency method, but obviously when trying to print direct it poses a huge problem :(
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately, it sounds like a printer issue. The few printers that I have tested never had an alignment problem. Good luck. If you do find a solution please update the comment, maybe you'll be able to help someone else. Good luck
DeleteHi, I have access to all the products except for the Krylon Matte Finish, may I ask you if this other product will work as fine as the Krylon?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.hahnemuehle.com/es/digital-fineart/hahnemuehle-protective-spray/p/Product/show/40/17.html
Finding an alternative to the Krylon is tricky. I havent tried the product you link to.
DeleteMy guess is that most finishes will work as long as they are matte.
However, there is a risk.
If the spray is too hydrophobic the layer of Digital Ground and FolkArt will not dry evenly which will cause streaks.
All you can really do is try it and see if it works. If it does work please let us know by posting a comment and I can update the FAQ and hopefully help out some more people.
Thanks for your quick response, I'll try two alternatives that may work. The Hahnemuehle spray is way too expensive, more than Krylon, the other is from a local brand which seems to be the same kind of product as the Krylon, I'll send you the results as soon as possible, greetings.
DeleteHi again!! after several months of wait, finally, I was able to put my hands on the Krylon. I didn't want to try any other varnish. I tried to make my first proxy and it was better than expected but there's this thing with the resolution of the printing, I used an Epson L800 which is excellent at printing high resolution pictures, I used the templates linked here which are also superlative, so I can't understand why does this happen. Is it the amount of the products that I'm not applying in the right proportion? I applied them just as you described on your video. Thanks in advance.
DeleteIt might not be a resolution problem. One of the many purposes of the folkart is to absorb excess ink. If excess ink is not absorbed then the print will appear blurry and wet right after printing. To fix this you can either add a thicker mixture to the card or you can lower the amount of ink that is produced by the printer. Some epsions actually have a setting that lets you determine how much ink you can print out. Lower tier printers adjust ink settings via the "paper type" setting. Different paper types use less or more ink. You're just going to have to experiment with your printer to find the perfect balance.
DeleteThere is another issue with some epsions that use pigmented ink. It seems that the rate at which the ink is applied can be adjusted on those printers and can have an effect on how pale the print is. In a few weeks I plan on updating the faq with pictures of common problems and their solutions. Until then good luck!
I'm on my journey to the perfect proxy and I find your method to be superior to anything I've found so far. One thing it does not address, however, is an effective means to protect the back of the card while working with acetone and other messy substances. So, just as you've shared your technique with the world, I figured I'd share how I protect the back of my cards while working -- enter "Delicate Surface Frogtape" (http://frogtape.com/products/frogtape-delicate-surface). This new tape is now available at most hardware stores and it works wonders at protecting the back of your card. I find that using a few strips of 1.41" tape is enough to cover the entire back of the card. The glue on this tape is especially light on smooth surfaces, such as the standard UV coating on MTG cards. I apply it by putting a small strip along the top and bottom of the card (about 1/4" from the top and bottom with the excess extending beyond their respective edges -- more on this in a second) and then two vertical strips along the side edges. I try to line up the side edges as perfectly as possible to lessen the possibility that a bead of something will collect on the tape along the edge of the card. After applying the tape, I go over the entire back surface of the card, firmly pressing all of the air out of the tape and ensuring a tight seal along the edges. The strips at the top and bottom can be folded back on themselves to stick the card to a surface for working. I use transparency sheets as a smooth, movable surface for this purpose. The tape holds the card firmly in place, but gently protects the back. The transparency can be moved around so I can work on the card from different angles. When I'm done, I peel the yellow Frogtape from the back of the card and it's as good as new! I have also found that leaving the tape adhered to the card while spraying with varnish can help control some of the unwanted warping in humid environments.
ReplyDeleteHope this helps everyone!
I tried the frogtape and it left a weird pattern on the back, as though it had absorbed the acetone and allowed it to mottle the back of the card. I'm having better results with scotch satin gift wrap tape with a cut-down card to protect the backs.
DeletetHANKS FOR sharing..
ReplyDeleteHP Envy 7649 Printer support
Great blog! I really love how it is easy on my eyes and the information are well written.
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Thanks for posting it!
ReplyDelete123 HP Envy 4504 | HP Envy 4504 Install & Setup | 123.hp.com/Envy 4504
Thanks for the blog.
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Thanks for the information.
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Is there another brand or alternative you could recommend for the digital ground? I cannot find anywhere online with Golden in stock.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis inkAid is bit more expensive, but it works. Hopefully you can find it in your country
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteIt is a great post for every blog and for me. Obviously I want to say that this is very important post for learn. Thanks....
123hp.Tech
Hi! I know that you've been answering a lot of good questions and my question might be laughable but don't judge me haha, my question was " Where can I find the images and borders that you used in photoshop? " and a detailed video might help me and a lot of other people, if you noticed this comment, thank you for taking time ;?
ReplyDeleteHere's the template used in the video. You can find that and more by following the templates link in the materials list as well as the font needed to make the template work.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the feedback. Maybe in the future I can do a photoshop tutorial.
Why do you make the image bigger than the outline?
DeleteIf you make the image the exact same size as the outline then when you print there is a small chance that it wont line up perfectly with the card, when this happens there will be a bit of white space showing. But if the image is bigger than this can't happen
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteCan I use a normal laser printer?
ReplyDeletenope
Delete
ReplyDeleteinteresting blog. It would be great if you can provide more details about it. Thanks you
123 hp install
Very nice and informative blog post
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I have a question, do you know some alternate items to buy?
ReplyDeleteThe item in step 4 seem pretty expensiv and the item in step one is not avalible in germany I dont really know what to look for?
Unfortunately I don't know of any alternative products to the inkAid. You can however use white acrylic spray paint as a stand in for the FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium. Its a bit thicker and obviously won't work for foils, but it does work. If you do find a alternative to the InkAid please post it here
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteGreat thoughts you got there, believe I may possibly try just some of it throughout my daily life.
123 HP Wireless Printer Setup
Ok, maybe give us the details on how to simply print a carrier. And why when i print does it come out looking like trash? I've had to shrink the image, but it drop the resolution. Yours come out sharp. How are you doing this? Someone help please.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for this tutorial. These alters are really fun to do and your method is outstanding. My one question though; what do you think the ideal ratio should be for the folk art and inkaid when you mix them?
ReplyDeleteGood article....thanks for sharing.....
ReplyDeleteEnvy 4504 Wireless Setup
https://mega.nz/#!G14VwLJY!GDlgkEvCtMFttGloPUY4VniyIHWRlOzX8XzYKcjuJb0
ReplyDeletecan somebody explain me, how much I fucked up and what is the reason for that?
Looks like youre not using enough folkart. The ink has nothing to seep into...
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteSo I have a question: is it supposed to lose that sheen that the cards normally have? I ask because while I got a nice print quality following these steps, it seems to have lost a bit of its reflective coat and I'd like to get that back. It's just more of a consistency thing than anything else.
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately the varnish that wizards uses is a bit of a trade secret. If you can find the varnish they use then that would solve the problem. If you do figure it out please post it here!
DeleteWhile I am new to this, I am going to try a variety of tests and see how the results look. If I do find something somewhat satisfying, I'll be sure to reply. I'm just glad I got the application of the mixture down so the cards turn out great.
DeleteAs an aside, if anyone else is using an Epson R2000, I recommend using the Premium Presentation Paper Matte setting, as it has given me the best results.
Wonderful blog & good post.Its really helpful for me, awaiting for more new post. Keep Blogging!
ReplyDeleteHP Envy 4504 Wireless Printer
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteA very interesting article. The insights are really helpful and informative. Thanks for posting.
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Question, I live in Canada where inkAid is unavailable and the price of shipping costs from the US is more than the actual product itself. Has anyone tried printing on Golden Absorbent Grounds now that Golden Digital Ground is discontinued?
ReplyDeleteIt seems like both Inkaid and digital ground are both no longer on amazon... What exactly is stuff like this called so i can search for it? Or is there a 3rd product i can use?
ReplyDeletecan i use two or three coats of folkart medium instead of inkaid? cause i cant afford the inkaid.
ReplyDeleteunfortunately no. inkJet ink is very special ink that has a chemical reaction with what is known as an "InkJet receptive coating" without such a coating printer ink will not stay in place. InkAid and Golden Digital grounds are the only commercially available inkjet receptive coatings I know of. One of those is 100% required, however the folk art can be substituted with white spray paint
DeleteAny idea on how to fix if my printer is printing slightly off the card? I line up the cards on the carrier fairly well, but its always slightly off and down to the side when it prints.
ReplyDeleteis there any good 300g matte coated paper for inkjet? ink aid there isn't in italy. i prefer print the card on blank paper with my canon ip7250
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